photo by Nicole Morgenthau
Certifications: Wilderness First Responder, Level II Avalanche, 1911 Basic Armorer (NRA), Gunsite 556 (advanced carbine), Range Master Tactical handgun (48-hours), E.A.G. Instructor Proficiency Course (M4A1, MEUSOC Pistol) at 1MEF SOTG (2001)
Awards: Recipient: American Alpine Club Underhill Award, 2017, Winner: Mountain Literature category, 2001 Banff Mountain Book Festival, Winner: 1999 National Outdoor Book Award, Shortlisted: Trento Mountain Book Festival 2005, Champion: Utah State IPSC (Stock, C class), 2000
Trainer and Coach
From 1999 to 2011 he trained various military assets US Department of Defense, including the 75th Ranger Regiment (1st, 2nd, 3rd Bat, RRC), Special Forces (5th, 10th, 19th, 20th groups), Tier One (Special Mission Units) from all branches of service as well as US Federal Agencies, including FBI, DEA and USIC. Courses covered operator fitness, mountain and winter mobility, self-rescue, high altitude adaptation, crisis nutrition, movement strategy, and cold-weather survival and clothing systems.
Between 2005 and 2016, he designed and executed physical conditioning for the Warner Brothers productions of “300”, “Man of Steel”, “300: Rise of an Empire”, “The Man From U.N.C.L.E., “Batman vs. Superman: Dawn of Justice”, “Wonder Woman” and “Justice League”.
At Gym Jones – a local gym with broad international impact, which he founded – he prepared competitors for MMA and Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu (students medaled at national and international tournaments), coached endurance athletes for climbing, cycling, running and ski mountaineering.
During his climbing career he developed and tested ice-climbing equipment for Grivel, footwear for Asolo, clothing and packs for Lowe Alpine, and was instrumental in developing Patagonia's Regulator clothing system. Contracted to Natick Labs (SOF Team, Individual Protection Directorate) as SME in 2002 to design, oversee and test the Protective Combat Uniform (PCU) clothing system, which was fielded to the Navy in 2004 and all of SOCOM in 2008. Scripted, narrated, and appeared in a New Equipment Training (NET) DVD delivered with each PCU system fielded to SOCOM operators. Consultant for the MARS cold weather clothing system developed (by Patagonia) for SOTF.
“Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High” (1999), “Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber” (2001). REFUGE (2019). Essays and books published in seven countries and five languages.
Founder and Technical Director of Mountain Mobility Group, which provided training and R&D to the Department of Defense. Founder of Gym Jones, a physical training facility and internet-based educational and motivational project. Under his own name he provides physical training and dietary guidance to actors and stunt crew preparing for Hollywood movie roles. Founder MFT Evol, a creative development company producing digital and analog imagery, ’zines and books, posters, podcasts, and clothing.
20 years as a professional climber, first ascents in the Alps, Himalaya, Andes, and Alaska Range.
2008 & 2009: Guided Navy personnel on the west buttress of Mt McKinley, in very light and fast style (one-day ascent from the 14,000-foot camp).
2000: 3rd ascent of the Slovak Route on Mt McKinley (6194m), Alaska, in a 60-hour non-stop push (prior ascents required 11 and 7 days), with Scott Backes and Steve House.
1994: First ascent of "Deprivation" on Mt Hunter (4442m), Alaska, 72 hours RT, with Scott Backes
1992: First ascent of “Beyond Good and Evil”, north face of Aig. des Pelerins, French Alps
1990: First solo ascent of Czech Route, north face of Peak Communism (7495m), Pamirs
1988: First ascent of “The Reality Bath”, the world’s first Grade VII frozen waterfall, 600m, VII, WI6+, 5.7, with Randy Rackliff. The route is unrepeated.
1988: East Face of Snowdome, “Slipstream”, 925m, IV, WI4+, solo ascent in 2hrs 4min, a speed record that stands in 2017 (most teams take 12 hours).
1994-2000: Performed several high altitude rescues on Mt Hunter and Denali, including the highest operational landing undertaken by a CH-47 (19,500’) after which Twight, Scott Backes and Alex Lowe rescued two Spaniards from 19,300’ on the West Rib.
2014: Stony Creek Six Hour mountain bike race, 60 miles in six hours, 1st in 50+, 3rd overall
2013: Power Of Four ski mountaineering race, 27 miles, 11,500’ elevation gain, 7hrs 32min
2010: Tour de Park City (150 miles, 8000' elevation gain) in 6:57:36, 2nd place (Masters 35+B)
2009: Logan-to-Jackson (206 miles, 7500' elevation gain) in 9hrs 37min, 12th place in Cat 4
2007: Everest Challenge (215 miles, 29,000’ elevation gain) in 13hrs 47min
2005: Trofeo Mezzalama ski mountaineering race, Italy
1997-2003: IPSC and Three Gun competitor mentored by Rob Leatham and Brian Enos.